Our third day in Samarkand brought us the most impressive sight yet as well as a highly unusual and exceedingly generous wine tasting experience. Here’s how we made the most of our final day in this marvellous city.  

Morning: Shah-i-Zinda and Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis

With the rain clouds firmly gone, our last day in Samarkand was shaping up to be a hot one. The temptation to wear shorts was strong but other than tourists, locals over 5 generally don’t wear shorts, and modest clothing is clearly appreciated and required at the main religious sights (though this is not always enforced).

We started with a visit to the awe-inspiring Shah-i-Zinda necropolis. This complex of mausoleums is a testament to the city’s rich architectural heritage. Among all the wonderful examples of Islamic architecture in Uzbekistan, Shah-i-Zinda really stands out and is an absolute must on any itinerary. Walking through the necropolis, we were struck by the vibrant blue tiles and intricate designs that tell stories of the past – and provide ample inspiration for bathroom tile designs in the present.

Hazrat Khizr Mosque and Islom Karimov’s Grave

On our way back towards the tourist information center, we stopped by the architecturally appealing Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Here, the former and evidently beloved leader, Islom Karimov, is buried next to a bed of basil (which happens to be enthusiastically grown as roadside decoration across Uzbekistan). The spot offered a moment of reflection on the country’s history and its path forward.

Afternoon: Wine Tasting in Samarkand

Uzbek Wine Tasting

After taking in these historical sites, we headed back to  our eagerly anticipated wine tasting tour. The tour was quite expensive by local standards at $49 p.p., but our previous experiences in Georgia and Champagne made it a non-negotiable activity.

The Bagizagan vineyard looked exactly like the former Soviet collective it once was: drab steel and concrete buildings. We were the only guests and were led by the local winemaster past a polite but unambiguous letter from the French, suggesting significant room for improvement in local viniculture. Undeterred, we descended into the cellars.

The sommelier humorously warned us that just like “plov can’t be compared to risotto”, Uzbekistani wine shouldn’t be compared to French wine. Bonus points for humility! We quickly moved from a barely drinkable Chardonnay to a more pleasant Shiraz, via a very floral rose. Top-ups were generously offered, and we merrily indulged in various grape-based spirits.

Ulugbek Observatory and Rooftop Drinks

After a stopover at the slightly underwhelming remains of the observatory of famed astronomer Ulugbek, we returned to our favourite rooftop bar Emirhan for a sundowner with a beautiful view of Registan Square.