Day 12 took us from the stunning Kyzyl Canyon in Boysun to the bustling capital of Tashkent. It was a day filled with natural beauty, unexpected adventures, and a long but relaxing journey by train.

Morning: Exploring Kyzyl Canyon

Resolving the Mystery of the Missing Driver

The morning started with the resolution of the mystery surrounding our missing driver from the previous day. He found us at breakfast, insisting he had been waiting for us until 8 pm. After some haggling, we settled the case for 300,000 som.

Exploring Kyzyl Canyon

With the driver issue behind us, we set off to explore Kyzyl Canyon, which is just outside Boysun and within walking distance from our guesthouse. Despite the lack of signs or markings, we managed to find a route into the canyon.

The ‘trailhead’ starts down the back alleys behind Hotel Boysun Palace, about here.

The potential for exploration is vast, with various paths criss-crossing the canyon. The hike along the sandy ridges of Kyzyl Canyon was stunning but not for the faint-hearted. The steep falls on either side made it a hair-raising experience, but the views were definitely worth it.

Afternoon: Hiking and Historical Discoveries

Joining a Tour Group

We weren’t alone in our exploration. A small tour group was also navigating the canyon, and we decided to join them for the next part of our day. Their guide led us to another of Alexander the Great’s fortress ruins overlooking an old caravan path. Discovering ancient pottery shards scattered around gave the place an aura of standing in the middle of history.

The Honey Market

Before departing Boysun, we visited the local bazaar known for its delicious honey. We picked up some as a sweet souvenir of our journey – naturally haggling hard for a good price.

Evening: Train Journey to Tashkent

Departure to Tashkent

Around 10 PM, we left Boysun for the train station, a 30-minute ride down a potholed road. The station was modest but clean, the trains on time. We had booked the night train to Tashkent via UzRailways about three weeks prior to our trip. Availability was already quite limited, so booking in advance is crucial.

The Train Experience

Our train cabin was simple but comfortable, with bedding that was surprisingly cozy. The train had an old Soviet-era charm, with a distinct smell reminiscent of a 1980s museum. While no food or drink was offered on board, we had anyway been advised to avoid the train meals and brought our own snacks. The 16-hour journey took us through the heart of Uzbekistan, offering glimpses of rural life and the vast, open landscapes of Central Asia. The rhythmic rumble of the train was soothing, lulling us into a restful sleep as we made our way to Tashkent.

Practical Tip 💡

When traveling by train in Uzbekistan, book your tickets well in advance, especially for popular routes like Boysun to Tashkent. Bring your own food and drink, as onboard options may be limited or unappealing. Ensure you have all necessary travel documents and a comfortable set of clothes for the journey.