Exploring the Rugged Beauty of Southern Uzbekistan

Day 11 took us on an adventurous hike through the rugged terrain near Boysun in southern Uzbekistan. From the dramatic landscapes of Derbant Canyon to searching for the hidden Teshik Tosh cave, this day was all about the outdoors.

Morning: Journey to Derbant Canyon

Setting Off to Derbant Canyon

The night before, we had arranged logistics with the help of a guide from one of the German tour groups staying at our hotel. Our adventure began at 8 am with a drive to Derbant Canyon. The plan was to hike part of the canyon and up to Teshik Tosh cave, with our driver picking us up in Upper Machay village 7-8 hours later.

Exploring the Canyon

The stretch through Derbant Canyon was impressive, with towering rock formations and dramatic vistas. The hike led us along a tarred road, making it easy to appreciate the stunning surroundings – but at the expense of that ‘adventure’ feeling.

Afternoon: Ascending to Teshik Tosh Cave

Village Shop Stop

We stopped at the Machay village shop for a top-up of water and enjoyed delicious local apricots before starting our ascent to Teshik Tosh cave at midday. The lack of trail markings and limited mobile internet meant we relied heavily on our pre-mapped route on Komoot.

Hiking to the Cave

The hike itself was a delight. The surreal mix of grass green and iron red soil, blossoming wildflowers, and the combination of vast pastures and rock formations created an exceptional experience. However, as we approached the cave, the path became increasingly overgrown and difficult to follow. We navigated through overgrown trails, avoiding a shepherd dog that started chasing us, adding a bit of adrenaline to our adventure.

Finding the Cave

With vultures literally circling above our heads, we scrambled around cliff edges in search of the cave. Unfortunately, we didn’t succeed in finding it. We later learned that the cave is actually at the bottom of the canyon and not easily visible from afar. We suggest organizing a guide if you are serious about checking it out.

Evening: An Arduous Return

Return to Upper Machay

Dehydrated and exhausted, we reached Upper Machay exactly 7.5 hours later, only to find no car at the agreed spot. After an hour of waiting and attracting curious looks from locals, a policeman helped us contact our guesthouse. We realized we had made a big mistake by not taking our driver’s name nor number, making it impossible to locate him.

Unexpected Return Journey

Eventually, we found a local willing to drive us back to Boysun for an additional 300,000 som. His breakneck driving along the narrow, curvy valley roads added another layer of excitement, which, at this point, we could have done without…

Practical Tips 💡

When planning a hike in remote areas like Boysun, ensure you have a detailed route mapped out on a hiking app like Komoot. Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and snacks. Be prepared for challenging trails and potential encounters with wildlife.

Always take the contact details of your driver or guide, and confirm pick-up arrangements clearly. In remote areas, having a local contact or a way to communicate can save a lot of hassle.