Our adventure began with an early morning arrival in Samarkand (a.k.a. Samarqand). Here’s how we navigated our first day, from the airport to our first explorations of its Old Town.
Smooth arrival in Samarkand
Our journey started with a Turkish Airlines flight, which offers the best international connections to Central Asia via a stopover in Istanbul. We recommend booking a multi-leg journey, e.g. into Samarkand and out of Tashkent, which Turkish offers at no extra cost. A word of caution: Istanbul Airport is the most expensive we’ve ever seen, with a very stingy internet allowance. If you travel on a budget and have a lengthy layover, do bring provisions! Turkish Airlines also offers free overnight hotel stays for anyone keen to explore Istanbul. We sadly didn’t do this, but it’s a great way to experience even more during your holiday.
Upon arrival in Samarkand in the early hours, we had a smooth passage through immigration and customs and enjoyed a funky purple passport stamp as the latest addition to our collection.
Practical Tips 💡
We suggest downloading the Yandex app ahead of arrival for significant savings on cab fares (around 50% off). See weblink here. Even hailing a cab at the roadside, taxi fares are very affordable, especially for groups. We ordered a taxi at the booth in the airport and paid about 50,000 som to get to the old town.
For Internet, we used an eSIM from Airalo (use code for $5 off), but heavy users might consider buying a physical SIM at the airport – even at 4 am, there were plenty of counters open.
Inside the airport, an ATM is available and recommended for withdrawing money immediately, as cash is still commonly used in Uzbekistan, especially outside the main cities.
We stayed at Furkat Guest House, a charming spot with a friendly host, comfortable beds, a hot shower, and a rich local breakfast—no complaints here. Samarkand doesn’t really come to life before 10 am, so if you have a 4 am arrival like us, it’s worth booking an additional night.
Thankfully, our sleepy host showed us to some secluded areas in the courtyard where we could crash for a few hours, lulled to sleep by the unexpectedly fresh and wet weather and the songs of unfamiliar birds.
Exploring the streets of Samarkand
First impressions: green and vibrant
Walking just a few meters to the main promenade, we were immediately surprised to see streets lined with healthy, flourishing trees rather than the dust bowl of our imagination. Visiting in spring, you can truly appreciate the agricultural potential of the land.
Around Bibixonim
Our first stop was the popular Bibixonim Tea House. The coffee was decent (i.e., not instant as is otherwise the norm), the plov being freshly prepared, and the atmosphere jovial but touristy. Feeling slightly more awake, we then went to Bibixonim Mosque and got our first impression of the architecture that the Silk Road cities are famous for.
Exploring the Bazaar
The nearby Siab Bazaar (closed on Mondays!) was a delightful collection of pickles, spices, slabs of lamb, and local produce, as well as money changers clamoring for business. Note: they provided a rate no better than the official ATM rate and it’s technically illegal, so just stick with banks/ATMs.
Cultural Insights and Unexpected Experiences
Seeking Relaxation: Hammam and Synagogue Visit
Fresh off the plane, we had hoped to go straight to a hammam to sweat out the journey and tiredness, but in Dovudi Hammom, we found a slightly eerie and very run-down “bathhouse” where a not obviously trained and rather unkempt man offered us a ginger rub. We politely declined and instead visited the nearby synagogue for a different take on Silk Road multiculturalism and a glimpse into the dying culture of Bukharian Judaism.
Evening: Meaty Dinner
For dinner, we went to a simple shashlik restaurant (Mayda Shashlik) near a blues bar we wanted to check out later. The meat was hearty but simple (sauces don’t feature prominently at local BBQs). The atmosphere was strangely masculine to Western observers: there is generally very little public mixing between the sexes, so the clientele was predominantly male, the vodka free-flowing and the smell of cigarettes lingered in the air. We bonded with the group next to us over local football club Dinamo Samarkand’s success (or lack thereof). A few words about sports go a long way towards friendly relations with the locals!
Nightlife: The Hookah Bar
The Blues Cafe looked and in fact sounded great but was also rammed, so we instead tried a nearby hookah bar (5th Avenue). We managed to grab the last table and settled down for a smoke and water (“we don’t have alcohol,” the waiter said). However, we noticed other guests with beers, and it turned out beer didn’t seem to fall under the no alcohol rule, so we spent a fun evening with increasingly merry locals.
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