Days 6 and 7 were an adventurous blend of hiking through the beautiful Nurata mountains and traveling to the historic city of Bukhara. From discovering ancient petroglyphs to navigating unexpected weather, these days were packed with memorable experiences.
Day 6: Hiking in the Nurata Mountains
Morning: Hiking Adventure Begins
In the morning, we set off on our first hike of the holiday.. It’s possible to hike from village to village and valley to valley in the Nurata mountains, with well-trodden paths clearly visible on the stretches we hiked. However, getting into the mountains and to a village to start from definitely requires a car.
Our driver-guide took us into the village of Sop from where we hiked (or rather: we ‘strolled’; our guide wore sneakers…) for about two hours into Sentyob across a ridge. As we made the ascent, we suddenly found ourselves enveloped in the delicious scent of lime pickle emanating from a ubiquitous local herb, sadly reserved for sheep.
Afternoon: Discovering Petroglyphs
Upon arriving at the Obi Chasma guesthouse in Sentyob, we were welcomed with hearty soup and candied peanuts, a popular Uzbek snack. We were also served a deliciously salty nut, which we only later realised were roasted Apricot kernels loaded with cyanide. H/t to the Locally Foreign blog for this insight in hindsight!
Energized, we set off into the now pouring rain to find the local petroglyphs. These ancient rock carvings, though lesser-known, offered a glimpse into prehistoric life. We continued up a staircase to a valley-facing viewpoint before slippery surfaces stopped us, and we retraced our steps back to the guesthouse.
Evening: Weather and Reflections
The inclement weather and the austere living conditions at the guesthouse were a stark contrast to our trip so far. The next morning, we woke up feeling under the weather ourselves (did it have to do with the cyanide from our kernel consumption…?). We debated whether to start the next hike which would have led us a village further, scaling a mere 400 meters but even that seemed too much, and we decided to abort our excursion and head straight to Bukhara.
Practical Tip 💡
For those interested in hiking, it’s crucial to have a route mapped out on a hiking app like Komoot. The trails can be unmarked, and mobile internet is limited. Ensure you have adequate water and sun protection, as the sun can be punishing even in early May.
Day 7: Journey to Bukhara
The inclement weather and the austere living conditions at the guesthouse were a stark contrast to our trip so far. The next morning, we woke up feeling under the weather ourselves (did it have to do with the cyanide from our kernel consumption…?). We debated whether to start the next hike which would have led us a village further, scaling a mere 400 meters but even that seemed too much, and we decided to abort our excursion and head straight to Bukhara instead.
Morning: Sarmysh Petroglyphs and Road Trip
Despite the rain, we made a stop at the Sarmysh petroglyphs on our way to Bukhara. Unlike the Sentyob petroglyphs, these were not overwritten with modern scratchings and offered plenty of opportunities to fantasize about life 6,000 years ago. The rain added a special touch to the ancient site, making the experience even more impactful.
Afternoon: The Vast Central Asian Steppe
The rest of Day 7 was spent driving through the vast, fog-shrouded expanse of the Central Asian steppe. The drive itself was an adventure, with long stretches of road flanked by endless horizons. We arrived at our hotel in Bukhara in the late afternoon.
Evening: First Impressions of Bukhara
For a change, we decided to try some international cuisine. Ciao Bella, despite its promise of basil and mozzarella, turned out to serve terribly sweet drinks and greasy pizzas, proving that this was not going to suddenly become a foodie trip. Exhausted from the journey, we settled in for the night, eager to explore Bukhara the next day.
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